Climbing Routes
Here we provide (step by step) information on outstanding multi-pitch climbing routes in the Alps. The described routes (of UIAA grade 7 and higher) were chosen because they meet certain criteria, such as: information on the route is difficult to find; information on the route is widely distributed but incorrect; there is a special reason for repeating a route such as an anniversary of first ascent; or the route is just a 5-star route that strikes the alpine sport climber's heart.
For each route there is
- an info box that summarizes all information about this route
- a topo based on a photograph of the wall where the line of the route is shown and information for each pitch is given
- a subjective description of the route with photos that show its character.
Explanation of the info box
Moreover, the SigmaDeWe-Route List shows all alpine multi-pitch routes we have climbed since 2005, including the mediocre routes and the mistakes. Generated from our climbing database the list provides in a compact form criteria such as beauty, difficulty (max, mandatory), protection, wall orientation, length, age of the route, access and climbing times, and more. Although the list is in German, most entries are self explaining and the rest can be copied for a translation tool:
Petra Aliena in the Verdon Canyon (F): Terrific route of moderate difficulties on the north-facing Estellié massif
L'Enfant des Étoiles & Porque Te Vas? at Concave (F): Two demanding classics on one of the most beautiful crags in the Calanques
Paléo-Meetic at Cap Canaille (F): Crazy climbing on strange rock structures above the Mediterranean Sea
De l'Art et du Cochon on l'Imbut (F): The metamorphosis of an old tech route in a wild section of the Verdon Canyon
Encore du Dévers on Tête Colombe (F): A newly equipped top route at the Ecaille de Tête Colombe near Briançon
Brexit on Urlkopf (AT): A Czech route in the Chiemgau Alps
Les Salades de l'Apocalypse on La Ramirole (F): The wonderful metamorphosis of an aid climb in the Verdon Canyon
Saga-Dissipation-Artisan Combination on Paroi du Giet (F): The perfect multi-pitch route in Aiglun
Cocotte Minute on Paroi du Giet (F): Climbing gem in Aiglun in the deserted hinterland of Nice
Hold up Mental on l'Imbut (F): One of the top newer-generation routes in the French Verdon Canyon
Les Rideaux de Gwendal on l'Escalès (F): A grand classic in the unique Canyon de Verdon
Die Nase & Schöne Tage on Urlkopf (AT): Two very exposed routes in the Chiemgau Alps
Noli me tangere – La Maldière (F): One of the major routes in the Vallée de l‘Arve
Opera Vertical on Torsäule (AT): The Hochkönig sibling of "Zauberberg" on the French Paroi de Gramusset
Zauberber
g on Paroi de Gramusset (F): The French sibling of Austrian‘s "Opera Vertical" in the Hochkönig massif
Two top routes on Steinplatte (AT): "Dunnaweda" and "Kraft der Worte" combined on one day (Chiemgau Alps)
L'usure du Temps on Tour Termier (F): Climbing paradise Cerces at Col du Galibier near Briançon
Schertle-Pfeiler on Untersberg (D): In 2012 the Schertle-Pfeiler on Untersberg celebrated its 50th anniversary