Climbing Routes

Here we provide (step by step) information on outstanding multi-pitch climbing routes in the Alps. The described routes (of UIAA grade 7 and higher) were chosen because they meet certain criteria, such as: information on the route is difficult to find; information on the route is widely distributed but incorrect; there is a special reason for repeating a route such as an anniversary of first ascent; or the route is just a 5-star route that strikes the alpine sport climber's heart. 

For each route there is

  • an info box that summarizes all information about this route
  • a topo based on a photograph of the wall where the line of the route is shown and information for each pitch is given
  • a subjective description of the route with photos that show its character.

Explanation of the info box

 

Moreover, the SigmaDeWe-Route List shows all alpine multi-pitch routes we have climbed since 2005, including the mediocre routes and the mistakes. Generated from our climbing database the list provides in a compact form criteria such as beauty, difficulty (max, mandatory), protection, wall orientation, length, age of the route, access and climbing times, and more. Although the list is in German, most entries are self explaining and the rest can be copied for a translation tool:

SigmaDeWe-Route List

 

De l'Art et du Cochon on l'Imbut (F): The metamorphosis of an old tech route in a wild section of the Verdon Canyon

Encore du Dévers on Tête Colombe (F): A newly equipped top route at the Ecaille de Tête Colombe near Briançon

Brexit on Urlkopf (AT): A Czech route in the Chiemgau Alps

Les Salades de l'Apocalypse on La Ramirole (F): The wonderful metamorphosis of an aid climb in the Verdon Canyon

Saga-Dissipation-Artisan Combination on Paroi du Giet (F): The perfect multi-pitch route in Aiglun

Cocotte Minute on Paroi du Giet (F): Climbing gem in Aiglun in the deserted hinterland of Nice

Hold up Mental on l'Imbut (F): One of the top newer-generation routes in the French Verdon Canyon

Les Rideaux de Gwendal on l'Escalès (F): A grand classic in the unique Canyon de Verdon

Die Nase & Schöne Tage on Urlkopf (AT): Two very exposed routes in the Chiemgau Alps

Noli me tangere – La Maldière (F): One of the major routes in the Vallée de l‘Arve

Opera Vertical on Torsäule (AT): The Hochkönig sibling of "Zauberberg" on the French Paroi de Gramusset

Zauberberg on Paroi de Gramusset (F): The French sibling of Austrian‘s "Opera Vertical" in the Hochkönig massif

Two top routes on Steinplatte (AT): "Dunnaweda" and "Kraft der Worte" combined on one day (Chiemgau Alps)

L'usure du Temps on Tour Termier (F): Climbing paradise Cerces at Col du Galibier near Briançon

Schertle-Pfeiler on Untersberg (D): In 2012 the Schertle-Pfeiler on Untersberg celebrated its 50th anniversary